China's north-east is a different country in summer and winter: endless grasslands in Inner Mongolia, birch forests across the Greater Khingan range, and the Arctic Village of Mohe where the aurora flickers. Two trains are built for it. The Hulunbuir Express runs the grasslands in summer and Harbin's ice in winter; the Lindou Express is a winter forest train with a library car and a run to Mohe for the lights.
Highlights
Hulunbuir
'China's most beautiful grassland', a sea of grass meeting the sky, with Mongolian yurts, horses and the Russian-flavoured border town of Manzhouli.
The Greater Khingan forest
Birch and larch woodland crossed by a historic forest railway, at its best in the gold of early autumn.
Mohe & Arctic Village
China's northernmost town, where the 'polar' summer light and, around the autumn equinox, the northern lights.
Harbin
The ice festival city: vast snow and ice sculptures, Russian architecture and a winter gateway by train.
Manzhouli
A border city of domes and European styling where China, Russia and Mongolia meet.
The winter forest
The Lindou run through snow-bound timber towns, a slow, fireside counterpoint to the grassland summer.
The trains that reach The Grasslands & Far North
The north-east is the territory of two trains. The Hulunbuir Express is a 44-seat train that does the grasslands in summer and Harbin's ice in winter, while the Lindou Express is a winter forest train with a book bar and library car, running to Mohe for the aurora. Both board from Harbin.
Hulunbuir Express
Grassland summers and Harbin ice winters, a 44-seat train built for the open steppe.
Lindou Express
A winter forest train with a library car, running north to Mohe and the aurora.
Best time to go
July to August for the grassland at its green peak, and December to February for ice, snow and the best chance of the Mohe aurora (around the autumn equinox and clear winter nights). The two trains are seasonal opposites, so pick by the experience you want.
Practical notes
- The grassland and forest trains are seasonal; the Hulunbuir runs summer and winter editions, the Lindou is a winter product.
- Mohe winter temperatures can fall below -30 C; the trains are heated but pack real cold-weather gear for off-train time.
- Both board from Harbin, an easy flight or high-speed rail from Beijing before you join the train.
- The aurora is never guaranteed; the Lindou run is timed to the likeliest windows but treat it as a bonus.